Walk 4 - Bahar ic-Caghaq (Ronnie’s Bar) to St Paul’s Bay.
Tuesday, 23rd March 2004.
Approximate Distance 4.5 miles
Getting to Bahar ic-Caghaq
From St Paul’s Bay - No.
652 Bus.
Until now the walks had,
more or less, followed the coastline of Malta and, although we had considered
continuing our walk alongside the sea, we decided to venture inland
to get to St Paul’s Bay. The route would take us along little
country lanes which, we hoped, would be devoid of traffic.
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Having alighted from the
St Paul’s Bay to Sliema bus at Bahar ic-Caghaq (Ronnie’s
Bar) we crossed the road and, going past a play area on our left, followed
a road inland and, in approximately 100 yards, a T junction was reached.
Here we turned left up the street, with houses either side. After about
50 yards we turned right (opposite a chemist). Almost immediately we
passed a church on our left and in less than ¼ mile we turned
left along a track - at this point there is a small traffic island to
the right.
As we started along this track we began to get a little concerned. The
sun, which had been trying to come out, had given up the challenge.
It had got cooler and from the look of the sky over the limestone hillside
and the Victoria Lines to our left (south) there was a strong possibility
that we might get precipitation before this journey was over.
Soon
we reached a house on our right, with a well in its front garden. Here
we turned right and were then in open countryside. This was pleasant
walking, even without the sun shining, with fields on either side of
our route. And then we passed a property, with an adjacent field full
of old rusting cars – mostly Fiats. ‘Wasn’t expecting
that.
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| Turn
right after the house with the well in the front garden.... |
...and
suddenly you are in open countryside.... |
but
the clouds look menacing over the Victoria Lines. |
Reaching another T Junction
we turned right onto a metalled track. A very smelly metalled track.
It was now that we realised we were in pig country. Fortunately my sense
of smell is not that acute, but Anne’s is and she was now thinking
the coastal route to St Paul’s Bay may have been preferable.
Soon we spied a sign indicating
the Maghtab Earth Station but rather than follow these directions we
turned right towards a group of houses about 150 yards away. Here the
road swung left and we followed it as our route went uphill passing
by houses and stables and a few small industrial units. Never expected
to see them in such a rural location,
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The
roads were very quiet and it wasn't until we reached the houses
and industry - seen ahead on the right photograph - that we saw
any vehicles |
While going through this
area a refuse tip to the north became very obvious. This refuse tip,
the Maghtab Land Fill, seems to be located on a plateau at over 175
feet high, and getting higher, and must be one of the highest points
in this part of the island. I imagine the views from the top are something
else but I doubt that many visitors take advantage of the panorama it
offers. Can
you guess why!
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The
refuse tip located on a plateau - one of the highest points on
the island.
Note the lorry, which gives an idea of the tips size
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We then approached a one-way
system. Never expected to see that in the area either. We took the road
that said “No Entry”. It only referred to vehicles, and
soon we reached a main road. Or at least it was much larger that the
roads we had already walked along. We crossed the road, going slightly
left, and down a track at right angles to the road. As we descended
the track it got narrower and smellier. More pig abodes.
250 yards later we reached
a pig farm with a shrine outside. Seemed an odd place to have a shrine!
Having admired the shrine we quickly moved on reaching a busy road with
a boat yard opposite. Here we turned right and, although I had considered
leaving the road after about 50 yards and going over the hillside, we
decided to stay with the road. The hillside looked to be bare of trees
but we could see trees ahead, an avenue of conifers, which would offer
shelter if the rain started. The clouds were beginning to look more
ominous.
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The
shrine - right next door to a pig farm. |
Heading
for the trees with waterproof already on. |
Farm
land, and by the look of the sky the crops will soon get some
rain. |
Through the trees, next
turning right, and up the road we went. At the top of the rise the road,
it was more of a track really, went left and we followed it passing
numerous houses, more industrial units and Green’s Supplies Limited
(Market Garden). I think Anne would have liked to explore this but we
pressed on as the clouds were getting even more ominous.
Soon after “Green’s”
the road went downhill, a track came in from the left and after another
200 yards or so a small church, St Michel's,
was seen on our right. The track then bent left and immediately right
(north) and soon we were just outside St Paul’s Bay by the road
that goes to Sliema. However, we continued to follow the track which
went left, away from the road, before turning right, and back to the
road.
Then
it was left and we followed the road to St Paul’s Bay - walking
on top of a low wall as there was no pavement. And then it rained.
It had not been a wonderful
walk. It had been overcast and often very smelly. But at least we reached
St Paul’s Bay before the clouds opened and we had seen a side
of Malta not experienced by most visitors.
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